Nice Article

Welcome to my country

Jonathan Dyson
Sunday November 6, 2005
The Observer


A young boy rushes towards me in the busy streets of Shadman Colony, a colourful, vibrant district just outside central Lahore. He has just received some exciting news from his brother: 'He came to the house to tell me there was an Englishman in the street, and that he has come to Pakistan to follow the cricket.' With throngs of locals already following my progress through this bustling neighbourhood, news of an Englishman's presence was spreading fast.
In the poorer districts of Lahore, a foreign traveller is rare enough, but a visitor from England, and especially one who likes cricket, is a dream for the locals. A stream of questions follows: 'How are you feeling in Pakistan?' 'Are you a batsman or bowler?' 'What is your opinion of Shoaib Akhtar?'

The area was hosting a performance of qawwali, a form of Islamic devotional music hugely popular in Pakistan. Featuring a lead singer who whips up the audience with impassioned renditions of poetry and dramatic hand gestures, a thunderous chorus of backing singers, tabla and a harmonium, it's a remarkably expressive way of celebrating their faith.

Uninhibited, bold and spectacular - it's how they like their music, and also how they like their cricket. 'Ninety-nine per cent of Pakistanis like big hitting,' Ishrat Ahmed, 14, explains. 'Shahid Afridi and Inzamam-ul-Haq are the most popular players here.'

The fact that the England team touring Pakistan have two big hitters of their own, Andrew Flintoff and Kevin Pietersen, has given the anticipation of the forthcoming Test series an extra edge. Millions across Pakistan followed every ball of the recent Ashes series, and admire England's new attacking style of play.

Posters of several of the Ashes heroes can be found in cricket magazines, the England players' thoughts fill endless column inches in the newspapers, and every aspect of the forthcoming Test series is being dissected. A poll on the Pakistan Cricket Board's website asks readers: 'After their Ashes win, will England be on a high, indifferent or complacent?' (Only 61 per cent feel they will be on a high.)

In a country defined by Islam, cricket is like a second religion. It permeates everyday life, through an obsessive following of the national side's fortunes, endless games of street cricket and animated discussions about the leading players. It all puts England's fleeting Ashes fever into perspective.

The fact that so few England supporters will be here to experience this remarkable cricket culture is a great shame. For any England fan on their first tour here, it won't take long to realise there is a misconception about Pakistan in much of the West. Despite being feared as a place where Western tourists receive a snarling glance wherever they go, Pakistan is home to people who could not be more welcoming.

In accordance with Islamic teachings, a 'maihman' (guest) is seen as an expression of God's blessing, and this goes a long way to explaining why any foreign visitor is greeted with a reverential handshake whenever they make a new acquaintance. People from all levels of society go to extraordinary lengths to make travellers enjoy their stay.

So, just how many England fans are likely to be here? With even the official Barmy Army tour being cancelled due to a lack of demand, it seems likely to be fewer than 100. Paul Burnham, head of the Barmy Army, explains: 'Those people who go on the Asian tours are a much smaller group. It's always been the same. The hardcore fans don't care where a tour is in the world, they will be there.'

As for the Pakistan fans, while each one-day international will attract a fervent, sell-out crowd, the Tests will be played in front of relatively few supporters. Test cricket has taken a back seat in Pakistan's modern cricket revolution, while the theatre of one-dayers grips the nation. The Test game still creates plenty of interest, but very few people turn up to watch.

In the wake of Pakistan's worst natural disaster, much has been made of the extent to which England's tour can create some much-needed cheer. And in a country where cricket means so much, it really is hard to think of a better fillip than a contest between their own venerated heroes and England's dynamic Ashes winners.

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http://sport.guardian.co.uk/cricket...1635312,00.html

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